Emile Van Der Staak - Food Forest produce
“We experiment. We create, explore and have fun. We discover and fail. We only cook with plants. In fact, we believe in botanical gastronomy. You eat what we find nearby. In food forests, in natural fields and in gardens. Be surprised. Taste the region. Taste the season.
We are all slowly depleting the earth. Our current consumption pattern is not sustainable, but finite. Moreover, our menu defines the landscape. Just look at the endless fields of ryegrass, mangold and field corn: all this is to produce fodder or hay for dairy cows. We can do things differently.
At De Nieuwe Winkel, we cook to make the world a better place. That's why we use plants: botanical gastronomy. We look for applications for edible plants. These can be plants that have grown here for centuries, but also plants from further afield. Japanese ginger, Chinese mahogany and honeyberries from Siberia, for instance, feel surprisingly at home in the Netherlands.
Once nature has done its work, it is our turn. We pick. Smell. Taste. Analyse. Ferment. Cook. Until there is something on your plate that amazes and overwhelms you.”
‘In these food forests, we do not force nature to do our will; we wait.’
Emile van der Staak is the chef and owner of De Nieuwe Winkel in Nijmegen - a two star restaurant that celebrates plants grown in a nearby food forest.
Why do you use perennial foods in your kitchen?
Perennial foods are sustainable, require less maintenance, and offer unique, nutrient-rich flavours. They support biodiversity and reduce the environmental impact, making them an exciting choice for innovative cooking.
Are there any difficulties with using perennial foods in a professional kitchen?
Yes, sourcing can be inconsistent, and yields are less predictable. Some perennials have shorter seasons, requiring menu flexibility. Additionally, customer familiarity may be low, necessitating extra effort to introduce and explain these ingredients.
How have your customers responded to the unknown perennials?
Generally positive, especially when the ingredients are explained well. While some are hesitant at first, most appreciate the novelty and sustainability, the bottom line is that flavour will always be leading in a memorable dining experience.
What are some perennial foods that get you excited as a chef and what’s their flavour?
Chinese Mahogany: The leaves have a flavour quite similar to french onion soup, perfect for oil and broth.
“Autumn roll” with Chinese mahogany, rolled in paper made from the wood of the Chinese mahogany. Credit Duncan De Fey
Sweet chestnut. A versatile ingredient for both sweet and savoury dishes. Our “not chocolate” dessert features chestnuts as a base. It's a chocolate-flavoured mousse made with chestnuts, where we’ve replaced cacao beans with chestnuts. After fermenting and roasting, the flavour develops to resemble chocolate with hints of mocca and caramel.
Ramsons: A blend of sharp onion and garlic flavours, ideal for spring dishes.
Sunflower Seed + Wild Garlic Risotto. Credit Duncan De Fey
Fresh Sichuan pepper. An intriguing ingredient because it offers a unique sensory experience with its vibrant citrusy, floral notes and distinctive numbing effect. Unlike traditional black or white pepper, Sichuan pepper introduces a complex layer of flavour that can elevate both savoury and sweet dishes.
Sea Buckthorn Berries: Tart and citrusy, great for desserts and sauces, one variety has the exact same flavour as orange.