Sea Beet + Lamb’s Kidneys Recipe

Like the spikes of an emerald crown, sea beet’s leaves are thick, green and arrow shaped. They taste like the finest spinach you’ve ever had, and are best when young. Creamed sea beet is the ultimate, in so many ways. This one, with seared fresh, tender and subtle lamb's kidneys, is way up there.

INGREDIENTS

SERVES 2

  • 200ml (7fl oz) milk

  • ½ onion, thinly sliced

  • 1 bay leaf

  • 2 thyme sprigs

  • 300-400g (10½2-140z) sea beet, or spinach or chard, coarser stalks removed 1 knob of unsalted butter

  • 158 (½/oz) plain flour

  • 4 lamb's kidneys

  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

  • 2 rosemary sprigs salt and freshly ground black pepper

METHOD

  1. Pour the milk into a medium pan and place it over a high heat.

  2. Add the onion, bay leaf and thyme and bring the mixture to a gentle simmer. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the flavours to infuse the milk for 15-20 minutes.

  3. Meanwhile, bring a large pan of water to the boil. Drop in the prepared sea beet or spinach or chard and cook for 3-4 minutes, until the leaves are tender. Drain the sea beet and refresh by running it under cold water. When the sea beet is cool, squeeze out any liquid, roughly chop, and set aside.

  4. Now make a white sauce. Set a medium pan over a medium heat, add the butter and when bubbling add the flour. Stir and cook for 1 minute, then pour in the infused milk, straining it through a sieve as you do so. Discard the onion and herbs. Use a whisk to work the white sauce as you cook it for 1-2 minutes, until it thickens.

  5. Season well with salt and pepper, then turn off the heat and fold in the chopped, cooked sea beet. Cover and keep warm.

  6. Carefully halve the kidneys laterally (across their face). Using the tip of your knife, remove the tough, white core and discard it. Place a medium frying pan over a high heat and add the oil. When it's hot, add the kidney halves and rosemary, and season with salt and pepper. After 1 minute, turn the kidneys and cook for a further 1 minute on the second side. (Don't be tempted to turn them too soon - they should take on some colour.) Turn off the heat and let the kidneys rest in the pan for 4 - 5 minutes. Serve the kidneys on warm plates alongside the sea beet, and some toast, if you like.