Perrine Bulgheroni - a common language
We interviewed Perrine Bulgheroni, a leading figure in farming, permaculture and sustainable agriculture and co-founder of the renowned Bec Hellouin Farm. Perrine’s work involves helping chefs to redefine their sourcing, and coordinating improved collaboration between growers and chefs.
Perrine is an acclaimed published author, with her new book ‘Living with the Earth - Volume 3’ to be released in Spring 2025.
See beyond availability lists; your primary producer’s farm offers a world of potential.
Perrine shared her thoughts on the “mind opening potential” which arose from having chefs visit her farm. Where Perrine noticed only weeds, the whole world of the farm became a potential for the chefs, sparking their creativity. For example, where Perrine only offered the fruits of blackcurrants to her customers, visiting the farm the chefs noticed and requested the blackcurrant leaves. Wild plants and weeds became an ingredient, and courgette flowers where previously Perrine had only sold courgettes. These shifts in perspective changed Perrine’s way of viewing production, helping them to be efficient at a very small scale.
“Where I saw only devastation (due to pests and diseases), they (chefs) were only interested in the power of the vegetables, the taste. Of course the look and beauty was important too, but they were more interested in the taste and the way they could transform it.”
Seeing first hand what is growing on your farmers land is mutually beneficial, creating greater opportunities for both you and your farmers, and can enable both businesses to thrive.
Aim to meet with your farmers at least twice a year.
On tips for chefs, Perrine suggests visiting your farmers' land twice a year, to chat through crops so the grower has a 6 month view of what to grow. Visiting your farmers' land helps chefs to understand the challenges farmers face.
It’s all about adaptation.
In Perrine’s experience, communication, cooperation and farm visits help chefs and farmers to find a common language, which in turn leads to greater flexibility from both parties. She believes all chefs should understand the need to be flexible and skilled enough to adapt.
“Is the chef able to change their menu at the last minute? We as growers on a daily basis adapt, so the chefs somehow have to be, not as flexible, but they do need to help carry the burden.”
“It should not be an extra burden for them but an empowerment, to make people happy and healthy.”